Bullfighting takes place throughout the Hispanic world, at its peak takes place every day, in the early evening. Whether Mexico or Madrid, the bullfight consists of three matadors killing two bulls each, lasting approximately twenty minutes per bull. The rings vary in size; a diameter of around 60 – 70 metres is common. Resembling a sports stadium, there are different priced seats; on offer are sol, sombre and sol y sombre. The cheapest seats are in the sun: sol. The sun faces you for most of the fight and thus keeps you warm – despite it being evening. Sombre, the most expensive, are those in the shade and is where the president of the bullring sits. To put it in perspective, seats here are sometimes more expensive than most of the seats for Real Madrid. Those in the sol y sombre will experience the fading sun and cool shade.
The bulls are prepared for fighting in the ring. They are extremely dangerous and over 500 kilos. At the age of three they are considered for the ring. Usually the bulls are black with upward horns; however other colourations, such as brown and white, are seen.
The corrida is a ritualised event, with three distinct stages, signalled by the sound of a trumpet. The paseillo, a prologue, is an extra stage whereby all the participants parade before every evening. The procession begins with the three matadors, behind whom are the cuadrillas (the men who support the matador). The mounted picadors in their elaborate jackets and wide, ‘slightly comical beaver hats’ enter next. Their feet, shins and horses encased in steel armour. The parade concludes when all the above salute the President, rather like gladiators would have to the Emperor.
The toril gate, charmingly known as the Gate of Fear, opens. It is a warm, autumnal evening in Malaga, and I am observing my first bullfight. The bull darts out of the darkness and bucks its way about the ring. All the noise and music of beforehand has ceased, there is an airless moment as the audience and toreros assess the animal. It looks muscular, frenzied and annoyed. It charges, kicking up dust and ramming its horns into the wooden barriers at the edge of the ring; the corrida has begun.
After some mandatory passes with the cape, the signal from the presidents white handkerchief heralds the first act of the corrida proper – Suerte de Varas, Act of the Spears. Two picadors with large spears enter, trotting within marked lines towards the edge of the ring. The idea is for the picador to encourage a charge and, whilst doing so, catch the bull behind the morrillo, its head tossing muscle. The spear contains a cross piece, thus not penetrating deeply. Aficionados see this stage “to be a matter of courteous injury”, as its aim is to cause the bull ‘slight’ injury, leaving it relatively mobile for the further acts. The bull charges, seen as a massive test of courage, across the ring and tussles with the horses, and tries to overturn them; the bull’s blood flows from its neck.
In the Suerte de Banderillas, three pairs of foot length darts are driven into the bulls back. Here three banderilleros, one after each other, run bravely towards the bull and once close enough sink two colourful sticks with a barbed point, into the bull’s morrilo. This act is not always completed successfully and injuries and deaths have occurred. On one occasion that evening, one dart successfully penetrated whilst the other flew in the air, the banderillero scrambled to the edge of the ring and the bull nonchalantly dismissed him.
Now for the climax of the bullfight. Not taller that 5 foot 8, dressed in a tight intricate tunic and skin-tight bottoms, the matador takes centre stage with his red cape, the muleta, and plays the bull. The matador aims to get the bulls horns as close to his body as possible by his passes, showing valour which the crowd appreciate. The band is playing, the spectators are lively and the matador salutes the crowd, turning his back on the beast; definately the climax of the evening. At the end of this bout the bull can manage no more. It stands panting, tongue out, and head down, with its blood reflecting the light of the sun; now for the ultimate move. The matador stares at the bull from a few feet, sword in his left and muleta in his right, stillness. With speed he shakes the muleta, drawing the bull head down towards him and plunges the sword through a gap in the shoulder blade, piercing the heart.
Failure to fulfil the ritual obligations properly, results in mass whistling and booing from the crowd. To them, a kill which takes more than one attempt is barely acceptable; as is an over enthusiastic picador. The crowd expect fluency and style, based on artistic impression and command. A matador who has performed poorly may find himself being hit with cushions as he leaves the ring. One who has performed skilfully and bravely, as a reward, gets the ears of the bull, and if exceptional the tail also. He circles the ring to the applause of the crowd, roses and handkerchiefs are thrown in his direction as a sign of respect. If the bull has given a spirited performance the public may implore for a vuelta, whereby the crowd applaud the dead bull as it is pulled once around the ring. On occasions a bull’s life is spared due to its ‘outstanding’ behaviour; returning to the ranch to live out his days, never to return to the ring.