La Dolce Pizza

In our time here at York, at some stage we will probably want somebody apart from ourselves, our friends, or Mr Oki/Efe/Deniz to cook for us (despite Mr Oki’s apparently fantastic rendition of One Pound Fish). The easy option for many is to go to the likes of Nando’s, Wagamama, Prezzo. These restaurants are very nice (particularly Nando’s), but let’s be serious here. York is absolutely full of fantastic restaurants, nearly all of which you can get for the price of the chain restaurants, if not cheaper. Heck, York was voted fifth best location for eating in Europe in 2011 behind the likes of Florence, Paris and Rome, and the best in the entire UK by Trip Advisor. So we are not trifling here, we are truly blessed with some quality here in our little city. So I’d like to run the rule over two of York’s prized possessions: Totò’s and Il Paradiso. I have heard glowing reviews of both, and being a highly organised individual, I ended up eating at both restaurants in the same day. From these visits I hoped to establish both whether the restaurants measure up to your Ask, Zizzi or Prezzo – and then how they compare to each other.

First on the, er, menu was Il Paradiso del Cibo. This restaurant on Walmgate is, to put it bluntly, delightfully Italian. It was also placed in the top ten budget restaurants in York in 2009 by The Guardian, so its casual atmosphere is nothing to be sniffed at. My companion, Fred (man-date central), and I were greeted warmly and bantered with the staff about how both our non-smoker fathers only seem to know the Italian word for ashtray. It’s ‘portacenere’, for those who may have wondered.

Service was absurdly rapid, even for a reasonably empty Monday afternoon. But what struck us above all was the food. Truly hearty homemade cooking, reflecting both the delicacy of flavour and the sense of passion and love that we have come to expect from Italian cuisine. My lasagne was like a big warm hug, and Fred’s pizza was light, the ingredients fresh, and authentic in abundance. I really hate hyperbole in writing about food, but this really was genuinely lovely. One point that may polarise opinion is the bustle of the place: while the busy atmosphere and constant movement of staff and friends endeared us to the restaurant, it points to more of a casual (and delicious) lunch than a more formal dinner or date setting. It’d also be great for an informal birthday meal or party. By way of price, the lunch/dinner menu (12:00 pm – 3:00 pm, 7:00 – 8:30pm) costs £6.95 for a pizza or pasta and a drink, which is just great for student types like us.

Onwards to Totò’s. Named after a famous Italian comedian and actor, this restaurant sits on the corner of Fawcett Street, barely fifty yards from the Barbican. The place has authenticity and rustic charm in spades; from the ice cream counter to the open-brick walls, it takes actual effort to remember that you are actually sat in the middle of Yorkshire. Onto the food: for starters we had mozzarella sticks, which arrived in what felt like seconds and came with a garlic and tomato dip that whetted our appetites beautifully; then pizza every bit as great as we had hoped it would be. One of Totò’s strengths is its comparative formality; it feels like somewhere you could very happily bring your parents or a date to. In fact, I have done both – my mother still raves about the tomato and garlic bread to this day, claiming it’s the best she’s eaten since she lived in Italy.

Price wise, on Sundays and Mondays pizzas are all £4.95, so this is your best bet for a very cheap and very tasty meal in a lovely little restaurant that can’t help but put a smile on your face. Comparing the two, I personally lean slightly towards Totò’s. That is not to say that Il Paradiso isn’t really good as well, and I have friends whose choice differs from mine. I think the difference is truly down to what you’re looking for. If you feel like an immersive experience of an Italian café, and the chattiness and amicability it brings, then Il Paradiso is your place. If you’d prefer a quieter affair that really puts you deep in the romanticism and culture, then head to Totò’s. Or, go to both and decide for yourselves. I struggle to fault the food, the service, and the price. Both places are family-owned and cook with passion and freshness. So whenever you feel like a pizza or pasta, please consider the real deal over the likes of chain restaurants. Because not only do they taste better, but they also cost less, and I promise that you will not regret it. Grazie Mille.